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How To DIY Install HMMWV © HMUVEE © Backup Camera

Have you ever wanted to do a DIY Install HMMWV © HMUVEE © Backup Camera? 

If you’re interested in installing a rear-view camera for you HMMWV © then this article may be for you.  My goal with this article will to be share how I did it and what my first impressions are.  My intentions aren’t to promote one brand over another or make any recommendations, simply share my experience.

 

So, it looks like back in 2017 I purchased a 12V / 24V wireless backup camera on Amazon. The product purchased was “Camecho RC 12V 24V Car Backup Camera Rear View Wireless IR Night Vision Backup Camera Waterproof Kit”.  I would share a direct link, but my intentions aren’t to promote any brand.

 

So, let’s talk about the how, how did we write up the camera and display.

In this case we’re installing it on a M1045A2 truck.  The 1045s have the slant backs and the right sponson already has a designated spot for an antenna, typically a AS-3900 military antenna is mounted there.  The very front bolt whole was an ideal spot to mount the camera.  I was originally going to purchase one of those clear glass overhead camera dome covers and just mount it in the middle of the antenna base but mounting it like this was super convenient and no custom fab was necessary.

IMG_8874-(W)

Once the camera was mounted, we simply drilled a whole in the antenna plug plate and fished the wires down.  In the future we’ll run some NP1 around the wires to make it watertight.  Since just about nothing is watertight on a HMMWV © we’ll get to this step at a later time.

IMG_8875-1

Then we fished the camera wire down through the grommet above the right rear tire.

IMG_8878-(W)

Then, we simply tapped into the ground and positive from the right rear market lights.  This way the camera will work anytime the marker lights are on.  We could have ran power directly and installed a sperate switch but we felt that we would not have a need for the camera unless the truck was running and the lights were on.  That means it can’t be used in blackout mode but that didn’t matter for us.

IMG_8877-(W)

Then, we took a separate battery and hooked up the display to make sure the camera and display were talking to each other before spending the time to wire up and mount the display.  And they were.

 

Let’s move to the inside of the cab.  So, we took the display mount that was provided and drilled new wholes to match the mounting wings on the HMMWV radio tray and simply mounted it right onto the radio tray.  If you look at the top wings of your radio tray you’ll see two mounting spots.  We just drilled onto the display mounting bracket to match the radio tray.

How did we run power to the display?  We fished the wires behind the instrument cluster and took negative from the main ground coming in.  When you open up your instrument cluster, on the top right, behind your heat controllers, you’ll see the main ground coming into the truck.  It should have a double nut behind it.  The best way to access it is to open up your cluster, then take out your doghouse.  That way you’ll have access to the front and rear of the bolt.  If I remember correctly it’s a 7/16.  Then we took the positive from the right cluster light.

Sorry, didn’t take pictures of this process.

As a result, once the marker lights are turned on the camera is on.  Once the dash / cluster lights are turned on the display is on.  This way, it’s automatically turned on and always stays on.  We could have run a switch to the reverse or added a manual switch, but we actually wanted the camera always on for as long as we’ve turned on the lights to the truck.

IMG_8882-(W)

 

Ease of install: Easy

Effort of install: Medium, it took some trial and error before we finalized on where we wanted to draw power and how we wanted the display to operate.   All in all, it took a few hours but mostly due to planning.

The good:

  • It actually comes with built in functionality to support two cameras, the kit came with one
  • I haven’t tested it at night but it says it has night vision mode
  • Price point, super cheap. I think I paid like $60
  • For the price the video quality is good.  Could be better but for the price paid it’s GREAT.

The bad:

  • The display mount is SUPER thin.
  • The wires are way too thin for something that is intended to go into a car.  I would expect thicker wires and way more insulation over the wires.

Conclusion: 

In all honesty, next time around I will likely pay more money and buy a system with better hardware and will likely go with all wired vs the wireless.  I would also pay more attention to screen capture with of the camera.

Thank you for reading this article.  If you enjoyed it, then please comment and share.

Check out trucks that Damage Control Customs has to offer here.

Click here for parts offered by Damage Control Customs here.

Click here for a consolidated HMMWV how to articles and videos.

If you have any questions please feel free to reach out directly or fill out the form below and you will be contacted.

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HMMWV© Gift Ideas

Hello,

as we approach the Christmas 🎄. I wanted to take a moment and list out some gift ideas for HMMWV© / HUMVEE© owners.   

So, if you’re looking for a gift idea for your husband / boyfriend, or super cool wife / girlfriend, then you’re at the right place. 

I’ll strive to give 3-5 options in the <$50, <$100 and >=$100 price ranges.  I will include mostly HMMWV gifts and a few other relatable items as well.

If you have any recommendations, then please feel free to comment or email me directly at damagecontrolcustoms.gmail.com

Gift ideas <$50

  • Want him to man up?  Then, get the MAN CAN.  They have $30, $60 and $100 options available.  Additionally, to the best of my understanding, during the month of November they list all their overstock items from past man can items and usually run a 10% off code.
IV8888_ManCan_Regular_6ba7e21b-eea0-48eb-87fa-eee2f4034b13_2880x
IV8888 MAN CAN! $30
  • If you’re okay with an item that wasn’t made for the military, then these are a good choice.  CIPA 11050 Suction Cup Marine Mirror on Amazon 41uIKdwCbbL._AC_.jpg
  • Here is a re-purposed surplus items that can be used as a cellphone holder and mounted in different locations within the HMMWV©.   You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
Who doesn't need a cellphone holder? $34.99
Who doesn’t need a cellphone holder?  $34.99
  • We all know the OEM cluster lights just don’t cut it.  So, what options do we have?  Just go LED.  Joey has used these and loves them.  For $10 it’s an easy decision vs the others offered.
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What, only $10?
  • Need to upgrade you rear bumper?  How about some tear drop shackles? You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
IMG_7501
Rear Teardrop Shackle
  • What about your seats?  What your seat colors don’t match?  Here is a cheap was to solve that problem, MOLLE Seat Cover.  Don’t know who this seller is but a HMMWV© owner recommended them and they are just under $50.

s-l500.jpg

Gift ideas <$100

  • Having grounding issues, then you may wish to beef up your grounding.  You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
  • GroundHarness1
    Grounding Wire Kit / Harness
  • You want your HMMWV to scream America?  Ya, I get you.  Have you considered these?  You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
E2C2ACE1-10EC-4D06-AE11-2C5223C46155
Flag Decal
  • In need of new shocks?  Ya, we know, the ride is rough but that’s mostly due to your tires.  With that said, if it’s time for new shocks, then these are available for a cheap price.  You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
HMMWV Shocks
12K Shocks

Gift ideas >=$100

  • Need some extra protection 🙂 ? Who doesn’t!  Check out these guys for some armor.  You can also get get 10% off by using promo code “Rub10“.  Here is a link for a full review.
B584A9D4-BA13-426D-8ABE-C6B6BEDDA660
How can you say no?
  • Need to dress up your hood?  Check out these custom hood grills! You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
C3D5AEFA-566A-4C0F-85C6-5463B027483D
Hood Grill
  • In the market for some heavy duty modular lights?  These are some cool toys.  You can also use promo code “Win10” to get an extra 10% off until Dec 31 2019.
Light2
Cool lights
Please note the featured image comes from: https://www.defense.gov/observe/photo-gallery/igphoto/2001083620/
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DIY: How I Assemble A HMMWV / HUMVEE Door / X-Door

Thank you for reading this article.  If you enjoy it, then please comment and share.

This is simply me putting together an X-Door which was recently painted. The goal of this article to simply share what I do.  Said in another way, this isn’t a detailed instructional article which necessarily follows the military process or any other professional process.  Just what I do.

All content here are for reference purposes only: Always consult with an expert if you are not one.

For a detailed list of bolts I used please see here.

With all that said, here we go!

Step 1:  You’ll need bolts, lots of them.

Make life simple for yourself.  What do I mean, when you start to disassemble your first door what you should do is grab a small empty box and gather all of your bolts off of that door.  I don’t try to save all of the washers and nuts.  I try to have one complete bolt, nut, and washer(s) per given set.  Where to me, a set is the number of bolts, nuts and washers you would need to reassemble a given part, or example the the armrest / latch, the hinges, latches …  For example, the latch has 4 bolts, 8 washers, and 4 nuts.  In this case, I would retain 4 of the bolts, two washers, and one nut.  When done you should have all of the bolts, and a single set of nuts and washers per set.  Then, I take this box to my local Fastenal and ask them to gather everything X 4.

Note: I stick to stainless

Note: More than likely Fastenal will not have the exact length for every single bolt.  Whatever you do, don’t get anything shorter, a tad bit longer will be fine.

Note: Consider getting extras of everything.  You will likely lose a few washers and a few nuts.

Step 2: Installing the window.

I like to start off with the door upside-down.  That allows me to slide the window into place by myself.

Note: Don’t forget to install the window rollers.  Otherwise, your window will have too much play within the frame.

roller.PNG

When installing the window I like to put the top window rollers in first, then slide in the window frame just passed the halfway point.

Then, I install the bottom window rollers and finally slide the window all the way up and lock it in place.

Step 3:  Installing the window stop assembly

My next step is to install the window stop assembly.  I do this next because I want to make sure the window doesn’t slide off and brake if I accidentally slip the door to the right side up position.

Step 4:  Installing the arm rest / latch assembly

It could be argued if this should be the next step or if should come only once your lock / latch has been installed.  I personally do it next.

armrest.PNG

Step 5: Installing your Lock

This is very straight forward and not much to be said here.  The only thing to note is that you should make sure not to forget the door spacer that goes between the door and the latch from the inside.

latch.PNG

Step 6: Installing the door handle

Next you want to install your handle from the outside.  Not matter if you purchase the locking handles or the standard ones the process should be identical.

Once you have your handle bolted up, not tightened down just bolts, washers, and nuts in place, then you want to connect the door latch road from the actual latch to the actual latch.

latchroad

Once you have the latch road in place, then you want to make sure your spring is attached and under tension.

spring.PNG

Then you want to confirm that your latch will lock in place and released when you unlatch it from the inside or outside.  Test this out a few times.

Step 7:  Hinges

Finally, you want to install your hinges.  You don’t want to tighten down the bolts.  Just get the nuts on and tighten it just so it’s not wobbling.   Once you hang the door and line up the door latch with the striker and only then you want to tighten down the hinges.

Note: don’t forget the spacers behind the hinges

Note: don’t forget to install your limiting strap retaining.  Otherwise, you wont be able to connect the limiting strap from the body to the door and your door will swing open all the way and potentially scratch by rubbing on the mirrors or other doors.

Note: You want to pay attention to the hinges for you do have a right and left.

Here is a time-laps video of everything explained above.

Thank you for reading this article.  If you enjoyed it, then please comment and share.

Check out trucks that Damage Control Customs has to offer here.

Click here for parts offered by Damage Control Customs here.

Click here for a consolidated HMMWV how to articles and videos.

If you have any questions please feel free to reach out directly or fill out the form below and you will be contacted.

Note: Several of the pictures posted on this blog are been pulled directly out of a google search and don’t belong to me.

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New order for HMMWV

The National Guard has put in an order for 739 M1152 HMMWV’s

The dollars keep on flowing,  therefore HMMWV production continues.

Thanks to an article published by shephardmedia I’m happy to announce that we should have just shy of 750 new HMMWV.  The National Guard has put in an order for 739 M1152 HMMWV’s.  This new order is valued at $89 million. This order is in addition to order placed back in Oct 2018.  Delivery of the new order is expected to start Q3 2019. In conclusion,  the HMMWV life line continues.  However, as civilian’s we will likely not see the impact of this for years to come.

What is a M1152 details:

According to AM General, “The M1152 is an Expanded Capacity HMMWV enhanced with Integrated Armor Protection as a Cargo or Troop Carrier. It is a two-man vehicle used primarily to transport personnel, but can also be used as a shelter carrier. The M1152 provides superior troop protection and is capable of carrying up to eight passengers under the Armor Troop Carrier or Troop Seat options.”

If you appreciate the article, then please follow us on facebook, Instagram and YouTube:

If you have questions for the Damage Control Custom’s team, please click here.

To view current HMMWV’s for sale, please click here.

How to download the full spec sheet for the M1152 please click here.

Finally, the full article from shephardmedia please click here.

 

Have any questions or suggestions?  Submit below.

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How To Install Locking Spindle Nut

This article will focus on installing a Locking Spindle Nut, which can be purchased here.  At the end of this article, there will be a few bonus items.

Note: This article is not intended to replace your Training Manual / Owner Manual, please use this article to only supplement.

For a video of the content below, please watch this YouTube video.

You want to first start with draining the existing gear oil by removing the drain plug using a 5/16 Allen wrench.  The drain plug is items number 4 within the first image below.  You want to open this plug and allow it to completely drain.

Next you want to remove the steering arm cover, which will expose the existing spindle nut.  To do this, you’ll need a 3/4 socket.   Within the first image below, item number 5 is the steering arm cover, and items 6 and 7 are referencing the nuts to be removed in this step.

Note:  You may have to remove the tie rod end / radius rod end from the steering arm cover.  On trucks with CTIS, disconnecting of the arm may be required since it is almost impossible to get the cover back on without folding the lip of the seal.

Next you want to remove all of the old gasket from the steering arm cover and the geared hub.   After which you want to dry off any of the old gear oil.

Next you want to bend back (away from the retaining nut) the locking tabs on your existing lock-washer.  Then, using a retaining nut wrench / socket you want to remove the retaining nut, lock-washer, and keyed washer.

Next you want to start to install your Locking Spindle Nut.  You want to take the notched washer and install that onto your spindle.

Next you want to install your grooved spindle nut per the instructions for your specific vehicle.  In our case, using a 1 3/4 socket, we hand tightened the nut, then using a torque wrench we tightened it to 40 pounds per foot.  After tightening, we spun the spindle 5 times clockwise and 5 times counterclockwise.  Then, we loosened the nut, and tightened it back to 25 pounds per foot.

Next you want to install your locking retainer and and the snap ring.   The locking retainer will have one of 6 position to which it may securely lock onto.   To install the snap rings you will need large snap ring pliers.  It is critical to make sure your locking retainer and snap ring are in place correctly.

Next you want to install your steering arm cover.  To do that, we applied The Right Stuff One Minute Gasket around the steering arm cover.  Then you want to place the steering arm cover in position and hand tighten the 4 bolts previously removed.  Then using your torque wrench, you want to tighten all four bolts to the appropriate torque, in our case 65 pounds per foot.

Next you want to clean off your drain plug and reinstall it.  After which you want to remove your fill plug and replenish your gear oil to the appropriate level.  Once the gear oil has been filled you want to reinstall your fill plug and torque it to the appreciate setting.  In our case, we used 80W-90 gear oil, and torqued the fill plug to 10 pounds per foot.

 

Bonus content:

Since you have the geared hubs exposed, you might as well as check your bearing.

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Since you have the tire off, you might as well as check to make sure your shafts are seated completely.

Since you have the tire off, you might as well as check all of your joints.  In this case we’re going to look at the boll joints. If needed, such as in this case, refill the grease, or maybe consider changing the boll joints.

Thank you for reading and have a wonderful day!

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Installing a turret

I’m going to share some of my experiences and lessons learned on how to install a turret for your slant back HMMWV.

Here is a quick video of everything below.

You first want to select your turret setup.  Make sure you have the right bearing, the right turret support.  If you have an older style turret with a smaller bearing you may want to think twice before adding a heavy coupla or shield.   Also, before getting started, make sure you currently have a c-pillar, if not you can get one here.

I like to start off with the turret support.  Scrape off all of the old gunk, grind and sand.

Then you want to disassemble your hatch.  Make sure to take lots of pictures because you will need them as a point of reference upon assembling.  Take all of your bolts to your local Fastenal or tractor supply and purchase brand new stainless hardware. Do yourself a favor and don’t go to lows and other such stores, you will be hard pressed to find everything you’ll need and you’ll pay a lot more.  Make sure to buy extras of each nut and bolt, you will lose some.  Once you have it completely disassembled, go ahead and start sanding each component one by one.

Once you have everything sanded and prepped. Then, move to priming and paint.  In my case I’m using tan primer.  Also, the interior of my truck will be green while the exterior will be tan, so I will have to pay attention to what I paint what color.  Finally, make sure to use the right kind of primer based on the paint you’ll be using.  If paining with CARC, the you will have to use the correct primer with the epoxy.  If you need details on this, then message me and I will be more than happy to give you the details.

Then, remove your roof and if necessary remove your old insulation.  If necessary, then use Polyurethane Sealant to close the gaps between where the roof lines meet.

You can find the sealant here:

Polyurethane Sealant in Aluminum Gray 
Polyurethane Sealant in White 
Polyurethane Sealant in Redwood Tan 

Then spray on your adhesive on your roof and insulation.  You want to go vertically, then go over it again horizontally.  Lesson learned, cut out where your support and b-pillar come into contact with your insulation.  Otherwise, your roof will not sit low enough.

Here is the Spray Adhesive for the roof insulation, you may want to get 3-4 cans of this

Next you want to install your c-pillar.  To do that, you will have to remove one of your sponsons, slide in your c-pillar, make sure the bolts line up, and reinstall your sponson.  The you want to install your support.  Followed your roof.  Finally your lock rings.

Once you’re happy with the fit of the roof and turret support then you want to run some of the sealant around where the roof and support meet.  Then place your bearing over the support and apply sealant again.  Attached a few bolts to hold the bearing close to the support and  leg that dray over night.

On the follow day, you want to create a gasket to go under roof retainers.  To do that, you can buy a large sheet of 1/8 gasket, you can buy shower liner, or you can use bike tire tubes.  I would discourage using bike tire tubes because I believe that would be harder to work with.  You can buy the shower liner, which is what I used, here.

You want to make sure your gasket is big enough to go passed your roof retainers, you can go back and cut it to exact fit once everything is dry.  You also want to add s’more more of your sealant under your gasket as well as under and around your roof retainers.  You want to go around the whole turret support and make sure your roof retainers are on nice and tight.  Leave this again over night.

Note:

(1) this sealant will not be 100% day in 24 hours but will be dry enough to work with.

(2) make sure not to add sealant on the bearing and the gasket you just made, the gasket can temporarily go onto the bearing but you will want to come back and trim it just passed where the bearing spins.

Now you can start to assemble your hatch back together.  Remember those pictures you took before taking it apart? This is when it will come in handy.

Again, here is a quick video of everything above

Finally, a huge thank you to those who continue to train me.  In this specific build, I have to thank Todd.  I think we both educated each other but I had a lot more to learn.