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Bulletproof Backpack

Today we’ll be doing an unboxing of a bulletproof backpack panel made by Premier Body Armor.  If you chose to order the product you must use promo code “Rub10” to receive a 10% discount.

This is an ideal gift for any student or anyone looking for low profile protection.

Lets start with something as simple as the packaging.  They did a very professionally job, very clean and just the right amount of packaging.  In my experience, most companies over packages, while some just don’t have enough material to protect your purchases as it travels through the maze of shipping lanes.  In this case, I think, the team at Premier did it very elegantly.

I know this really isn’t a big deal but it always makes me smile.  When you open the box, they actually include free brand stickers.  Come on, stickers don’t cost $7.99, yet most companies want you to pay them to advertise their products, well not Premier.

 

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This product is actually made right here in the US.  The best part is that it comes with a 5 year warranty; I think most car companies only warranty their sales for 3 years while Premier provides 5 years.  The product is rated to provide protection against several calibers, including 9MM, .45 ACP and .44 Mag.  When you flip over the packaging they actually list all of the calibers.

The product is actually light weight. I actually didn’t notice a difference in weight when I added it to my daily Backpack.  And, the product is very flexible.

In conclusion, this is a product I would highly recommend and would personally own.  To order yours today visit Premier Body Armor and use promo code “Rub10” to receive a 10% discount.

Check out this YouTube video for the same as above but in a video form:

Thanks

Master Damage Controlman, Ruben

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How To Install Locking Spindle Nut

This article will focus on installing a Locking Spindle Nut, which can be purchased here.  At the end of this article, there will be a few bonus items.

Note: This article is not intended to replace your Training Manual / Owner Manual, please use this article to only supplement.

For a video of the content below, please watch this YouTube video.

You want to first start with draining the existing gear oil by removing the drain plug using a 5/16 Allen wrench.  The drain plug is items number 4 within the first image below.  You want to open this plug and allow it to completely drain.

Next you want to remove the steering arm cover, which will expose the existing spindle nut.  To do this, you’ll need a 3/4 socket.   Within the first image below, item number 5 is the steering arm cover, and items 6 and 7 are referencing the nuts to be removed in this step.

Note:  You may have to remove the tie rod end / radius rod end from the steering arm cover.  On trucks with CTIS, disconnecting of the arm may be required since it is almost impossible to get the cover back on without folding the lip of the seal.

Next you want to remove all of the old gasket from the steering arm cover and the geared hub.   After which you want to dry off any of the old gear oil.

Next you want to bend back (away from the retaining nut) the locking tabs on your existing lock-washer.  Then, using a retaining nut wrench / socket you want to remove the retaining nut, lock-washer, and keyed washer.

Next you want to start to install your Locking Spindle Nut.  You want to take the notched washer and install that onto your spindle.

Next you want to install your grooved spindle nut per the instructions for your specific vehicle.  In our case, using a 1 3/4 socket, we hand tightened the nut, then using a torque wrench we tightened it to 40 pounds per foot.  After tightening, we spun the spindle 5 times clockwise and 5 times counterclockwise.  Then, we loosened the nut, and tightened it back to 25 pounds per foot.

Next you want to install your locking retainer and and the snap ring.   The locking retainer will have one of 6 position to which it may securely lock onto.   To install the snap rings you will need large snap ring pliers.  It is critical to make sure your locking retainer and snap ring are in place correctly.

Next you want to install your steering arm cover.  To do that, we applied The Right Stuff One Minute Gasket around the steering arm cover.  Then you want to place the steering arm cover in position and hand tighten the 4 bolts previously removed.  Then using your torque wrench, you want to tighten all four bolts to the appropriate torque, in our case 65 pounds per foot.

Next you want to clean off your drain plug and reinstall it.  After which you want to remove your fill plug and replenish your gear oil to the appropriate level.  Once the gear oil has been filled you want to reinstall your fill plug and torque it to the appreciate setting.  In our case, we used 80W-90 gear oil, and torqued the fill plug to 10 pounds per foot.

 

Bonus content:

Since you have the geared hubs exposed, you might as well as check your bearing.

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Since you have the tire off, you might as well as check to make sure your shafts are seated completely.

Since you have the tire off, you might as well as check all of your joints.  In this case we’re going to look at the boll joints. If needed, such as in this case, refill the grease, or maybe consider changing the boll joints.

Thank you for reading and have a wonderful day!

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Installing a turret

I’m going to share some of my experiences and lessons learned on how to install a turret for your slant back HMMWV.

Here is a quick video of everything below.

You first want to select your turret setup.  Make sure you have the right bearing, the right turret support.  If you have an older style turret with a smaller bearing you may want to think twice before adding a heavy coupla or shield.   Also, before getting started, make sure you currently have a c-pillar, if not you can get one here.

I like to start off with the turret support.  Scrape off all of the old gunk, grind and sand.

Then you want to disassemble your hatch.  Make sure to take lots of pictures because you will need them as a point of reference upon assembling.  Take all of your bolts to your local Fastenal or tractor supply and purchase brand new stainless hardware. Do yourself a favor and don’t go to lows and other such stores, you will be hard pressed to find everything you’ll need and you’ll pay a lot more.  Make sure to buy extras of each nut and bolt, you will lose some.  Once you have it completely disassembled, go ahead and start sanding each component one by one.

Once you have everything sanded and prepped. Then, move to priming and paint.  In my case I’m using tan primer.  Also, the interior of my truck will be green while the exterior will be tan, so I will have to pay attention to what I paint what color.  Finally, make sure to use the right kind of primer based on the paint you’ll be using.  If paining with CARC, the you will have to use the correct primer with the epoxy.  If you need details on this, then message me and I will be more than happy to give you the details.

Then, remove your roof and if necessary remove your old insulation.  If necessary, then use Polyurethane Sealant to close the gaps between where the roof lines meet.

You can find the sealant here:

Polyurethane Sealant in Aluminum Gray 
Polyurethane Sealant in White 
Polyurethane Sealant in Redwood Tan 

Then spray on your adhesive on your roof and insulation.  You want to go vertically, then go over it again horizontally.  Lesson learned, cut out where your support and b-pillar come into contact with your insulation.  Otherwise, your roof will not sit low enough.

Here is the Spray Adhesive for the roof insulation, you may want to get 3-4 cans of this

Next you want to install your c-pillar.  To do that, you will have to remove one of your sponsons, slide in your c-pillar, make sure the bolts line up, and reinstall your sponson.  The you want to install your support.  Followed your roof.  Finally your lock rings.

Once you’re happy with the fit of the roof and turret support then you want to run some of the sealant around where the roof and support meet.  Then place your bearing over the support and apply sealant again.  Attached a few bolts to hold the bearing close to the support and  leg that dray over night.

On the follow day, you want to create a gasket to go under roof retainers.  To do that, you can buy a large sheet of 1/8 gasket, you can buy shower liner, or you can use bike tire tubes.  I would discourage using bike tire tubes because I believe that would be harder to work with.  You can buy the shower liner, which is what I used, here.

You want to make sure your gasket is big enough to go passed your roof retainers, you can go back and cut it to exact fit once everything is dry.  You also want to add s’more more of your sealant under your gasket as well as under and around your roof retainers.  You want to go around the whole turret support and make sure your roof retainers are on nice and tight.  Leave this again over night.

Note:

(1) this sealant will not be 100% day in 24 hours but will be dry enough to work with.

(2) make sure not to add sealant on the bearing and the gasket you just made, the gasket can temporarily go onto the bearing but you will want to come back and trim it just passed where the bearing spins.

Now you can start to assemble your hatch back together.  Remember those pictures you took before taking it apart? This is when it will come in handy.

Again, here is a quick video of everything above

Finally, a huge thank you to those who continue to train me.  In this specific build, I have to thank Todd.  I think we both educated each other but I had a lot more to learn.